Mr. Riza briefed us about the module booklet and assignment 1. He also roughly briefed us about other assignments that we have to complete this semester.
The first task for us is to understand garment draping. Students are required to
understand the body form and mark the right area of bustline, waistline and hipline. In this
project, students are required to drape a basic dress using calico fabric and transfer the draping results
into working patterns and sew the pattern to understand the fundamentals of the draping technique.
Draping is a means by which fashion designers can three-dimensionally prototype their sketches on a mannequin or dress form. They do so by draping fabric over one of these forms and then pinning, pleating, and sewing where appropriate.
After that, We started our first lesson. Mr. Riza showed us the steps to mark the important lines on the mannequin and also the process of draping. We were using pins and elastic bands/ draping tape to mark those important lines, such as neckline, shoulder line, armhole, bust line, center front, side seam, waistline and princess line.
Here is my process when marking the lines：
Result of marking lines:
I tried to mark two types of princess lines. At the end, I choose the modern princess lines which is the princess seam from the armhole.
Princess lines from shoulder
Princess lines from armhole
Next, we were going to start the draping process. First, we have to measure the longest width and length of each panels. Then, roughly draw out the pattern on Calico and cut it out. Make sure your pattern's center front and back is parallel to the straight grainline of the calico fabric.
I'm drawing the pattern on calico.
After that, I pinned the calico fabric on mannequin and started to drap.
Below is my draping process for bodice:
Result of the bodice draping:
Front
Side
Back
-Week 2-
This week, Mr. Riza guided us to drap the skirt part. The steps was same as the bodice but we need to add dart to make the fabric fitted to the mannequin.
Roughly draw out the skirt's pattern on calico.
Then, I started to drap the skirt.
Here is the draping process for skirt:
Result of the skirt draping:
The overall result:
-Week 3-
In this week, Mr. Riza showed us the ways to trace or transfer the draped garment patterns on Mahjong paper and cut those pattern in calico. Once we finish making all the relevant notches, pleats, tucks, and so on, take the draped garments carefully off of the dress form. Lay the panels on a table and use rules to sketch out the pattern nicely.
Then, lay the panels on Mahjong paper and trace out the patterns.
Result of the pattern on Mahjong paper:
Front bodice
Back bodice
Front and back skirt
After that, moved the pattern on Calico and lining, then cut it out.
Make sure all the panel's grainline are parallel to the edge of fabric (straight grainline).
Pin the pattern paper and calico before cut it out.
Same goes with the lining fabric.
Result of final working pattern:
Calico
Lining
After finishing cutting out those pattern in fabrics, I started to sew all the panels together.
sewing dart
Attach all the panels
Result of the calico dress:
Sewing lining panels together
Result of the dress lining:
Mr. Riza also showed us the steps to attach the lining and calico dress together.
My notes
-Week 4-
In this week, I move on to sew the calico dress and lining together.
Pin and sew the invisible zip
Before I start sewing, I pin the fabrics to ensure they stay in place.
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